Buying a used western saddle can save you hundreds — sometimes thousnads — of dollars compared to buying new. But the used market comes with real risks. A saddle with a cracked tree is not just uncomfortable; it's dangerous. This guide walks you through every step of the evaluation process.
Why Buy Used?
Western saddles are among the most durable pieces of horse equipment made. A well-crafted saddle from a reputable manufacturer can last 30, 40, even 50 years with proper care. That durability is what makes the used market so attractive. When someone has already absorbed the steepest part of the depreciation curve, you can walk in and acquire a genuinely high-quality saddle for a fraction of its original cost.
The key word there is "genuinely." Not all used saddles are worth buying. Some have been ridden hard and put away wet — literally. Others have structural problems that aren't visible at first glance. The goal of this guide is to make sure you can tell the difference between a great deal and an expensive mistake.
Step 1: Inspect the Tree
The tree is the internal skeleton of the saddle — typically made from wood (traditionally cottonwood or pine), fiberglass, or a combination. Everything else hangs off the tree. If the tree is compromised, the saddle is compromised, and no amount of beautiful leather tooling or silver hardware changes that.
How to Check for a Broken Tree
Place the saddle on a solid, stable surface. Put both hands on the pommel and both thumbs on the cantle. Apply firm downward pressure to the pommel while pushing up on the cantle. Listen carefully. A sound tree will produce no noise at all. A cracked or broken tree will produce a creaking, popping, or crunching sound that is unmistakeable once you've heard it.
Then flip the saddle over and look at the underside of the skirts. Any soft spots, unusual ridges, or visible asymmetry in the bars could indicate structural dammage. Run your hands along the length of both bars — they should feel uniformly firm and smooth.
Understanding Tree Types and Widths
The tree width — specifically the angle and spread of the bars — determines whether a saddle will fit a given horse's back. The most common designations are:
- Regular or Semi-Quarter Horse (SQH): Fits horses with narrower, more prominent withers. Angle is approximately 90 degrees.
- Quarter Horse (QH): The most common width, fitting the typical stock horse body type. Angle around 92-94 degrees.
- Full Quarter Horse (FQH): Designed for horses with wide, flat backs and low withers. Angle of approximately 96-98 degrees.
- Arabian: Shorter bars with a different angle to accomodate the Arabian breed's shorter back.
- Gaited: Modified bar angle and length designed for the unique motion of gaited horses.
Tree width is one of the most common sources of saddle fit problems. A saddle that's too narrow will pinch the withers; one that's too wide will drop down and bridge on the horse's back. Always verify the tree width against a professional saddle fitting — don't guess.
Step 2: Evaluate the Leather
The leather tells you a great deal about a saddle's history and remaining life. Well-maintained leather has a supple, slightly tacky feel — the result of years of conditioning. Neglected leather feels stiff, brittle, or papery.
Checking for Dry Rot
Grab a section of leather — a billett strap is ideal — and bend it sharply. Healthy leather flexes smoothly. Leather with dry rot will crack visibly along the bend, sometimes crumbling at the edges. Any signs of dry rot are a serious red flag. While surface dryness can be reversed with conditioning, deep dry rot weakens the leather structurally and cannot be reliably repaired.
Stitching Condition
Examine every row of stitching you can see — along the seat jockey, the skirt edges, the fenders, and especially the stirrup leathers. Broken or missing stitches weaken the structural integrity of components that take significant load. Restitching is possible but adds to your cost.
Hardware and Rings
Check all dee rings, buckles, conchos, and the horn cap for rust, cracks, or looseness. Mild surface rust on steel hardware can be cleaned; deep pitting is harder to address. A loose horn cap (the leather or rawhide wrapping around the horn) can usually be re-wrapped, but it's worth factoring into your offer.
Step 3: Assess the Fit for the Rider
A saddle that fits your horse perfectly but is wrong for you will still be a frustrating experience. The two key rider measurements are seat size and twist.
Seat Size
Seat size is measured from the front of the swell to the top of the cantle. Typical adult sizes run from 14" to 17", with 15" and 15.5" being the most common. The right size depends on your actual seat measurement — measured from the back of your knee to your hip bone while seated. A good rule of thumb: measure your seat and add approximately 2 inches to get your saddle size. However, this varies by body type and riding discipline.
Twist and Seat Shape
The twist is the narrowest part of the saddle seat, just behind the pommel. A narrow twist allows the rider's pelvis to sit more naturally; a wide twist forces the thighs outward. Different disiplines and body types prefer different twists — barrel racers often prefer narrower twists, while trail riders sometimes prefer more width for long-ride comfort.
Step 4: Buying Online vs. In Person
The safest way to buy a used saddle is in person. You can pick it up, flex the tree, smell the leather, and sit in it before handing over money. That said, some excellent deals can be found online — particularly on sites like eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and specialty equine classifieds.
When Buying Online
Always request the following photos before committing:
- The gullet opening (from the front, looking straight through)
- The underside of both bars and skirts
- The tree front and cantle, flexed slightly by the seller
- All billett straps, bent at 90 degrees to show condition
- Both fenders, fully unrolled
- Every rigging ring and dee
- The seat leather, close up, in good lighting
Ask for a video if possible. A short video of the seller pressing on the pommel and listening for tree sounds is worth a hundred photos.
Seller Red Flags
Be cautious when a seller:
- Refuses to provide close-up photos or video
- Describes the condition as "great" or "excellent" without specifics
- Is vague about the tree width or brand
- Won't allow a return if the saddle differs from description
- Applies pressure to buy quickly before "another buyer takes it"
Step 5: Negotiating the Price
The used western saddle market has wide price variation. The same model in similar conditon might sell for $400 in one state and $900 in another. Research comparable sold listings on eBay (look at completed sales, not just asking prices) to get a realistic sense of current market value.
Condition is the biggest price variable. Factor in the cost of any repairs or cleaning you'll need to do, and negotiate accordingly. A saddle priced at $500 that needs $150 in repairs and conditioning is a $650 saddle, not a $350 saddle.
What to Expect to Pay
Very rough price ranges for used western saddles in good condition:
- Budget / entry level: $150 – $350 (Big Horn, Tex Tan, import brands)
- Mid-range: $400 – $900 (Billy Cook, Crates, older Circle Y)
- Quality / competition: $900 – $2,500 (Circle Y, Martin Saddlery, Reinsman)
- Premium / custom: $2,500+ (Circle Y top of line, custom makers)
These ranges are for guidance only. Prices shift with geography, current market conditions, and how motivated the seller is.
Final Checklist Before You Buy
- Tree sound test — no creaks, pops, or crunches
- Tree integrity — no soft spots, ridges, or asymmetry
- Leather condition — supple, no dry rot, no deep cracking
- Stitching intact on all load-bearing components
- Hardware clean, rust-free, and secure
- Tree width appropriate for your horse's back
- Seat size appropriate for your body
- Price reflects actual condition after accounting for any work needed
With this checklist in hand, you're well equipped to find a saddle that serves you and your horse well for many years to come. If you have specific questions, don't hesitate to reach out through our contact page — we're happy to help.